Nesting Blizzard Boxes

Hedi Kyle and Ulla Warchol have written a wonderful book called The Art of the Fold.  My last blog post was about samples I made from the book. Today, I want to present a modified version of one book that I have come up with. I will introduce other works I have made using Hedi's structures as a jumping off point in a later post. I am including a diagram of measurements, divisions and how I folded this new work. You will need lightweight, but sturdy paper that measures 6 x 18 3/8 inches. You will also need to score many of the divisions between sections. Do so accurately and you can fold this project. I used Hedi's directions for folding the boxes and added the extra "bridge" section between boxed so that they can fold inside each other. Each box gets slightly wider to accommodate the precious one.

I hope you try it and let me know in the comments what you think.

Enjoy!



Diagram showing how to divide the paper before folding. Each 3 square division represents 1 inch. The first 8 divisions are exactly 1 inch each. The next 2 are 1 1/16 each followed by three 1 inch sections ( labeled side, bridge, side). Finally there are two 1 1/8 sections followed by three 1 inch sections. I made a model of this on graph paper to make it easier to score the lines. Then I moved on to decorative paper.


Here is the structure folded and ready to pop into boxes with bridges between them.



Here are the boxes from the back showing the extra section between them. This extra paper is necessary to act as a hinge to allow each box to fold inside the next one.



The boxes beginning to be nested.



All the boxed are nested inside the largest one. You can make this with more box sections by increasing the width of each box by 1/8 inch. Good luck.





Playing Origami Detective

I follow someone on Instagram who posted an intriguing picture the other day of a folded origami envelope/box.

URL: https://artsandculture.google.com/exhibit/0gIihjYd3lscJQ  (Click on the right arrow 3 times to get to the correct page.)

She asked if anyone knew how to fold it and I thought, "That's easy, it's just a twist fold but on the back side." I didn't have time to study it that day, but yesterday I decided to tackle the problem. I tried several folds that I thought would work and they didn't. Then I tried something that seemed similar, but wasn't. Then I desperately tried to find the directions online. There were none. I stared at the image and tried to unfold it in my mind and couldn't quite see it. I decided to take a break and come back to it today after finding a YouTube video that made a similar fold called the square tato.

Long story short, after much trial and error I figured out how to fold the envelope called an Ori-Sue used for holding slips of paper that have scent names written on them. This is used in the Japanese tea ceremony from what I could find out. Maybe you would like to try folding this lovely little envelope.

-Gina



Crease pattern for Ori-Sue fold. Red lines are mountain folds and blue lines are valley folds.

Start with a square piece of paper. Different colors on each side make for a more dramatic final product.

Mark the center of the paper by folding in half and pinching each side. Do not crease. Then fold up one side past the center (so more than 1/4 the paper width) but less than 1/3 the paper width. For example, if your paper is 6 x 6 inches, fold up the side more than 1.5 inches but less than 2 inches.

Left sample has sides folded to 1/4 the length (in other words each side is folded to the center of the paper) and there is no center square. The middle sample has sides folded into thirds and the whole center is the twist triangles with no edges. The sample on the right is what we are trying to make and is folded between 1/4 and 1/3 the paper width.



Fold in the corners creasing very lightly to mark the square. Fold up the two sides to the point where the diagonal meets the edge of the paper. This will give you the same width as the first fold without having to measure.

If you have done things properly the two sides should overlap each other, but not meet at the folded edge.

Rotate the paper 90 degrees. Again fold the corners in lightly to meet the straight fold and mark on the paper's edge. Fold the last edge up to this diagonal mark. Now all for sides are folded. You have a square in the center of the paper and four squares at the corners. Crucially, you have rectangles between the corner squares on the four sides of the paper. 

Next you will fold each side up and fold in the left side corner to meet the vertical line as shown above. Repeat on all four sides, only folding the left corner up. Fold the corner to the back of the paper as well to make the last step easier.

Your paper should now have all of these folds (minus the red and blue lines). It's time to collapse.

To collapse the model, fold up one side then fold back along the diagonal on the right side. Fold in the corner and turn the model 90 degrees counterclockwise.



Fold up the second section the same way, folding in the side then the corner. The center square starts to take shape.

Fold in the third side the same way then open up the first side at the top left corner to tuck in the last corner mountain then valley folds.

Pinwheel the four sides overlapping them to form the final shape.

Here is the final model. You can make the square of contrasting color bigger or smaller depending on how close to 1/4 or 1/3 you fold the first side of the paper. Play around and see which size you like best.

Origami Flapping Butterfly

When I started attending San Diego's Origami Society two years ago, I met a man named John. He was welcoming and kind and taught me several interesting structures. He invented the modification to this butterfly that makes it flap when you squeeze the last fold between your finger and thumb. Sadly, John is no longer with us, but I enjoy making his forms and am happy to be able to share this one with you.

Enjoy!

Fold a crisp new dollar (or a piece of paper that measures 6 1/8 x 2 5/8) in half lengthwise. Turn and fold in half the other way as shown. These are mountain folds.

Fold down each top corner from the centerfold until the corner touches the bottom of the dollar. Do not crease the corners flat. Stop when you meet the center crease.

Fold back the long center mountain fold. Allow the points of the bill to stand and curve as shown.

Flatten the previous curved paper by folding in the bottom of each side until it meets the long mountain fold. This fold should result in the top points being divided in half.

Fold back the bottom points until they open out as shown.

Valley fold each side of the dollar along the middle fold. This picture shows the left side folded down.

This is how the dollar looks after you fold down both sides along the center. Turn over the model and fold back each side to the center fold. 

The butterfly looks like this after the last fold. Turn the model over again.

There is a center kite shaped that needs to be folded to make the flapping mechanism. 

Fold up the bottom of each side of the center kite. Invert these folds as in the bird base (see the picture below).

The point you just created can be grasped and pinched and the wings will flap.

Enjoy John's flapping butterfly!

Making Leather Journals and Handmade Inserts

I have been beguiled by the journal keeping craze that is everywhere currently. Why not? I love making books and I have all kinds of papers appropriate for journal pages. Now I just need to put something in them...

Here are picture of my process for making a leather bound journal (8.5 x 5 inches) and inserts using things I have in my studio. Enjoy!

Supplies to make a leather journal. (Leather, elastic, inserts, washi tape on acetate sheet)

Some notebooks I already made with different kinds of paper inserts.

Notebook cover with pockets made from Graphic 45 cardstock

Cut the paper to 8.75" x 12". Fold up the bottom part at 8.25 inches. This creates a pocket that is 3.75 inches deep. Cut a V notch in the middle as shown.

I got this piece of 8.5 x 11 inch leather at Michaels. It is the perfect size for this journal.

Cut paper inserts (I used 12 sheets as this Tomoe River Paper is very thin) to 8.25 x 8.25 inches and fold in half with the grain. If you are using thicker paper like watercolor paper you may want to limit it to 8 sheets, which folded in half gives you 32 pages.

Make a template to create sewing holes in the inserts and cover paper. For this project, I measured in 1.25 inches from the top and bottom and made a center hole at 4 1/8 inches. Then I used an awl to poke the holes.

Place the template in the center fold of the pages and poke holes.

Use double stick tape to tape up the sides of the folders in the insert cover. 

Pockets are complete.

Put holes in the cover the same way you made them for the pages and cut a piece of waxed linen twice the length of the pages (16.5 inches)

Sew the pages and cover together using the

Pamphlet stitch.

The insert is complete.

To finish the cover you need to make holes in the leather spine using a screw punch. I used a 2.5mm bit and placed three holes at the top and bottom and one hole in the center. The Center hole is located 5.5 inches in from the left and  4 1/8 inches down from the top.  The top and bottom holes are 1/4 inch up or down from the edge of the leather and placed at 5, 5.5, and 6 inches from the left edge. This creates a 1 inch spine with plenty of room for 4 inserts.

Screw punch and leather.

I used elastic from the craft store to bind my inserts. Start at the top left hole and come in from the outside of the cover. Leave a tale and run the long end through the adjacent center hole to the right. Then go down to the bottom of the cover and go out through the center hole and into the hole on the right. Go to the top and out the right hole and back through the center hole. Then go down to the bottom of the cover and out the center hole and in the left side hole. Tie the two ends of the elastic together in a square knot. Trim the excess elastic. You will need about 36 inches of elastic for this and you want to pull it taut. It should buckle the leather

slightly

so that there is some tension when you place the inserts inside.

Use ~14 inches of elastic for the center hole loop that will keep your journal closed. Tie a knot in the ends and insert the loop from the inside to the outside so that the knot is inside the cover.

The finished journal with inserts.

My three handmade journals!

Crane Card Origami

Just when I think all the ways to use the half-crane origami structure are explored, a new idea strikes. Here it is; a one sheet card with interlocking cranes. It works best with paper that is different colors on each side so that there is nice contrast. I have this lovely

origami paper

in gold/silver on one side and colored paper on the other. Below are step by step images as well as a folding guide. I hope you will try it.

Enjoy!

-Gina

Fold paper in half and cut a slit in one side to make two square areas. Cut out edges on the right to leave a square behind as shown. For this 3 x 5.5 inch paper I cut a slit 1.5 inches long and 1.5 inches down from the top. I cut out rectangles on the right that measured 1.5 x .75.

Fold the single crane as with the paper oriented as shown.

Turn the paper over and fold the two cranes as shown. 

Fold the card down the middle fold and place the center crane's wing over the top crane to lock it in place.

Starting paper sizes: 3 x 5.5 (left), 3.5 x 6 (middle), 4 x 7 (right)

Four Corner Map Fold

I was reviewing my folder of prototypes the other day and came across a structure I created a few months ago and forgot about. I am making some samples for a friend and thought this one would be interesting to share. Instead of just sharing with her I decided to share it with all of you as well.

Below are pictures of the structure being folded as well as the crease pattern for folding it yourself. One piece of advice, fold before making the 8 cuts. It is easier that way.

Enjoy!

Diagonal and linear folds completed.

Collapsed model ready to fold in the corners.

Folding the corners to prepare to inside reverse fold them.

Beginning to collapse the model with all the folds present.

(Outside of model)

Inside of model with all the folds properly creased.

One way of displaying the piece.

 I like the way the four inside corners form the star in the center.

Folding the model closed.

Crease pattern for this structure.

Spiral Atlases: playing with The Road to Spring book structure

I like to play with paper. I also like to invent new structures and then stretch, shrink, or change their folding patterns. Below are pictures showing two variations of my book

The Road to Spring

. The squares that form the base of the structure changed size from 4 inches down to 2 inches instead of staying the same size in the original version. I made a prototype on Wednesday with the squares centered and decreasing by 1/2 inch (see diagram 1). This made a very interesting model and got me thinking about other ways to have a graduated structure (see diagram 2). I hope you like the surprising results as much as I do. Here are my newest creations: Spiral Atlases (thanks Mom for the name).

Enjoy,

-Gina

Diagram of first variation.

Diagram of second variation.

Spiral Atlas #2 showing crease pattern. 

Note the notches cut where the squares meet.

#2 with creases collapsed.

#2 Side view.

Spiral Atlas #2 folded into Turkish map folds in each section.

#1 and #2 with finished Turkish map folded sections.

#1 with Hungarian map fold inserts. 

I used tracing paper hoping the marbling would still show.

#2 with gelatin printed paper inserts.

Spiral Atlas #2 finished.

Spiral Atlas #1 finished.

Playing with Paper/A Valentine's Day Treat

In 2008 I took a workshop that changed my life and my approach to making artist's books. It was taught by

Joan Michaels Paque

and she was a paper engineer and weaver extraordinaire. After the class I was playing around with folding paper and created a small book with the crease pattern you see below. The book was put into a drawer for years until last week when I decided to clean out my cluttered office and found it again. I always thought of this folded structure as a book and only looked at it linearly, but now I make structures that fold around in a circle. When I twisted this one into a circle it created a structure that is flexible and interesting in many orientations.

I have been thinking about ways to modify this structure and came up with two variations. One is inspired by Valentine's Day and the other is the answer to the question: What happens if I make a smaller version and nest it inside the bigger one? I hope you like the results and try folding one yourself.

Enjoy.

-Gina

Crease Pattern

Stages of folding the structure.

Two orientations of the round structure. There are more below.

I cut out hearts from paper folded into the water bomb base.

Variation 1: Insert hearts cut from 4 x 4 inch paper into the slots to make a unique Valentine.

Variation 2: Fold a second structure from 3 x 18 inch paper and nest it inside the 4 x 24 structure.

Three ways to twist the structure.

Sometimes I'm Jagged on the Inside

I have a new accordion folded sculpture to share with you today. A few days ago I was wondering what the

Turkish Map Fold

would look like if I used rectangular paper instead of square paper to fold it. Then I got to thinking about the fold for the insert I used in

The Road to Spring

 and

Companion Star

. Could it also be folded with rectangular paper? The answer is yes, and it makes a very interesting asymmetrical shape. Next I wondered if there was a way to fold this new shape from an accordion folded sheet of paper so that the parts would be connected to each other. This was tricky and took some fiddling, but in the end I was able to create the sculpture you see below. Later in the day a name came to me and it is the title of this blog post.

Here are some pictures showing the folding process. Enjoy!

-Gina

Finished piece.

Single folded unit.

I taped together several single units to figure out where I needed to cut the accordion and make a continuous folded sculpture.

Step 1: accordion fold then fold diagonals. Then cut the paper as shown.

Step 2: Collapse the paper along the diagonals.

Step 3: Fold in the triangle sides. Notice how one side has a small triangle and the other side is larger, but they don't overlap. This creates the asymmetrical look.

Step 4: All the triangle sides are creased. Now just inside reverse fold all of them to create the final shape.

How to Make a Tunnel Book

I have tried several times over the years to make tunnel books. They are wonderful, interactive structures that are visually appealing as well. I have not been very successful in my endeavors as my "pages" tend to warp and bend. Last month at a 

San Diego Book Arts Salon

 I met a woman who makes beautiful tunnel books and she was working on one invented by 

Ed Hutchins

. She downloaded the directions 

here

 and I came home and did the same. Fast forward to yesterday when I finally had the time to make a tunnel book myself. Below are pictures of the results. This version of the structure has lightweight side hinges and doubled pages. In other words, no more warping!

I used a roll of craft paper for the base structure and it worked beautifully. I used three pages from an old calendar to get the images, but you can use anything, or just draw your own images. I hope you will be inspired to try this project.

-Gina

1. Choose images.

2. Cut and fold craft paper (8" x 30") and lay out images.

3. Cut holes in pages so you can see through the tunnel.

4. Pasted first image and cut in an oval around elements you want to keep.

5. Paste down the other images and glue side tabs together.

Finished tunnel book with 4 layers of images.

Top view of tunnel book.

Side view of book with hinges showing.

Origami and Kumi Korf workshops

I have been very busy the last two weekends making paper art. First, the

San Diego Origami Club

met and we learned to make this wonderful box structure. Last weekend I participated in two

Kumi Korf

workshops. The first workshop was a whirlwind of 5 book/box structures. The second was a kinetic book structure that is housed in a lovely box. I am still finishing up the second workshop projects, but it was a wonderful weekend and my head is now swimming with ideas. Below are some pictures of what I made as well as the diagram I created for the origami box structure. I hope you enjoy.

-Gina

Origami Box

Instructions for the folded box

Kumi Korf Workshop book

Another Kumi Korf workshop structure.

The outside of this structure.

"Hole in My Heart" structure. I still need to cover the top and bottom sections with decorative paper.

Configuration 1 of the above structure. Slots will house small books.

Configuration 2 of the above structure. I can't wait to finish.

I would like to thank Kumi for sharing her talents, humor and amazing structures with the participants of this

San Diego Book Arts

workshop.

Modified Blizzard Fold Pinwheel Structure

I would like to share a model today that I invented based on

Hedi Kyle's Blizzard Fold

book (instructions are given in the Penland Book of Handmade Books). I was playing around with the folds and wondered what would happen if I folded every other triangle fold back instead of forward as you do in her model. The result was 4 little niches with roofs and floors. I then manipulated this linear structure and realized that if I turned it in on itself I could create a pinwheel design and a book in the round. Below are step by step pictures with descriptions for how to fold this structure. I hope you will try it and come up with interesting uses for this wonderful design. Thanks for stopping by.

-Gina

 Step 1: Start by folding a piece of paper measuring 6 x 24 inches into 16 equal parts (ie. accordion fold the length of the paper). Then with the accordion folded up, fold down the top and bottom corners to form triangles like you see in the picture above.

Step 2: Repeat the triangle fold for each mountain fold (page) of the structure.

Step 3: Here is where my model diverges from Hedi Kyle's. Unfold all of the triangle folds made above and reverse fold the first one on the mountain fold as shown above.

Step 4: Unfold the next mountain fold, making it a valley fold and fold the triangles toward you. Your model should look like the picture above.

Step 5: Keep the next mountain fold and fold the triangles to the back of the structure. Repeat this process, first folding the triangles towards you then unfolding the next mountain fold and folding the triangles to the back until you reach the end of the paper.

Step 6: Your model should look like the picture above. The one below gives a different angle showing the triangle folds going back and forth.

Step 7: Close up the model along the valley folds and mountain folds. Notice that the structure is now twice as wide. That is because we opened up every other mountain fold in the previous steps.

Step 8: Now we return to the Blizzard Fold and starting with the first page fold the triangle sections into the middle of the pages. 

Step 9: The next set of triangles is on the back side of the model. Fold them in as shown above.

Step 10: Continue folding in the triangles at the back and front of the accordion folds, tucking in and folding along existing lines. Use the pictures to help you get your model working.

This picture shows the triangle flaps being folded in on the second page.

Here is the model with the first and second pages and their triangles folded in. Note how the rest of the model looks at this stage.

The third set of triangles are now folded up.

Here is the other side of the model at this stage.

The forth set of triangles are now folded up and the folding is complete.

This is the model from the other side. At this point you can use the model as a linear structure. It has these 4 niches on one side and 3 on the other. Or you can proceed and get the pinwheel pictured below.

Step 11: If you want to turn the model into a self closing pinwheel structure make sure the model has the side with 4 niches facing you. Grab the first and last page and pull them towards each other, but away from you and the niches will open out to form the structure you see above and below. 

Step 12: To get the model to stay in this open position, take the triangle tabs from the last page and fold them over the triangle tabs on the first page (shown in the picture above on the left).

Here I have turned the model into an artist's book using paper threads to represent waves. 

A New Book Structure, the Cube Book

Today's post is all about a lesson:

never throw anything away

. I made the parts of today's artist's book several years ago after taking a workshop from

Laura Wait

. In the workshop we painted large sheets of textwove paper with paste paints then folded, cut and bound books using the

Drum Leaf binding

, invented by

Tim Ely

. I loved the class and the surprise nature of how images, cut and rearranged, could look different once the final book was assembled. We learned how to write text in several interesting ways and to use this as imagery not words. I took the class to learn the Drum Leaf binding, but really enjoyed the embellishment aspects more.

Fast forward to my painted 24 by 18 sheet of textwove that I decided to cut and fold into a form I learned way back in 2005 from

Karen Thomas

. I have adapted her technique to folding one long strip of paper into a 4 page accordion book. I made the paneled long strip you see below in triplicate and then put it away in my bottom drawer and there it languished until a few weeks ago. I was looking through my origami models to see what I wanted to take to the origami group meeting and I found the painted, folded strips of paper and decided to rework the pieces. I kept one long strip and cut the others into squares, refolded them and inserted them into the available openings. I created a triangular tab to hold it all closed and realized that I could make the book cube shaped by flexing some of the folds. Voila! a new book was created from the cast-offs of an almost forgotten project. So, always keep interesting pieces of paper and paw through them once in a while and see if you can't come up with something new and different to do with them.

I hope you enjoy the results of my paper play.

Here is the book closed and in cube form.

This is what the book looks like open.

Looking straight down into the closed book.

Here is the book showing its parts. The four twist folded inserts at the top and the long paneled strip below. Notice the way the folds look when you make this book from a long strip of paper.

The back of the book showing the paste colors.

Folding directions for one panel of the accordion book.

Crease pattern for the twist insert "pages."

The Little Prince altered book

I have been working on altering some classic children's books this week. I have an idea for

Alice's Adventures in Wonderland

, by Lewis Carroll, but am letting it stew for now. In the meantime, I have been drawing, measuring, and cutting into a student copy of

Le Petit Prince

, by Antoine de Saint-Exupery. I wanted to make it look like there was a staircase leading the prince from his asteroid home down to Earth. There are things I would do differently if I did it again, but all in all I am happy with the results. Let me know what you think and come back soon to see how I transform Alice...

The book before I started to cut.

I wanted the stairs to spiral, so I drew one using the Fibonacci sequence. It works well, if you need a quick, accurate spiral.

I also wanted the stairs to be evenly spaced and radiate out from a center point. To do this I divided a circle into 1/6ths and subdivided this twice more to create the above drawing. I made all the drawings on tracing paper so I could overlay the designs for the final one below.

Here is the piece of tracing paper I used to make the cuts in the book. I first traced the outline of the boy and asteroid that I wanted to keep, then I added the spiral and the radiating lines from the drawings above.

This picture illustrates how I cut each section of the stairs starting at the back of the book and cutting larger wedges as I went.

Here are the tools of the trade that I used during the process: a thin cutting mat, two exacto knives (one for straight lines and one for curves), a 1/4" spacer for the page edges, and a pencil to trace the lines from the tracing paper onto the book pages.

Voila!! 

Figuring out Hedi Kyle's Pocketbook fold

I spent a hot weekend here in San Diego trying to figure out how to fold an expandable file book based on 

Hedi Kyle's Blizzard Fold

. It took some trial and error to get things just right. I think in the end I had to make 5 or 6 models to get a book that would hold ATC size inserts (3.5 x 2.5 inch cards). The book can be modified to make it taller, squarer, wider, etc. depending on the size of the piece of paper you begin with and how much you fold in the long edges.

Below is a series of pictures I took while folding the 3.75 x 2.5 inch model for my 

ATC's

. Enjoy and please feel free to leave comments. I like to hear from you.

~Gina

1. Cut paper to 7.5 x 20 inches. Fold both long edges in 1/4 of the width (1 7/8 inch). I used a long clear ruler to score and fold these lines since the paper is grained short (the grain of the paper is parallel to the 7.5 inch width of the paper). Once both edges of the paper are folded unfold them in preparation for step 2.

2. Accordion fold the paper into 8 equal sections. The best way to fold paper is to fold it in half, unfold, fold the two edges into the center fold, unfold and finally fold each of these 4 sections in half. Do them one at the time and do not stack the folds as this leads to the paper twisting. Only fold one layer at a time for best results.

3. Fold up all of the accordion folds. Your paper should look like this. The first page should open away from you.

4. This step is where we diverge from the normal Hedi Kyle Blizzard Fold. Follow the steps in the handwritten directions above numbered 1-3. Hopefully, the pictures and lines make sense. When you are done your model should look like the picture above.

5. Open the page and this is how the model looks. 

6. Now we need to fold the next section the same way as above, but with two sides. This time we have a bit of help from the previous fold. The angle of the triangle is established by the crease made in the last step. This will help you line up the diagonal that meets in the center of the folded page. 

7. This picture shows you what the model looks like once both top and bottom triangles have been folded on one side.

8. Here is the model with both sides folded down and in.

9. Open the next page and repeat the process two more times.

10. Here is the last page ready to have its triangle flaps folded.

11. This is what the back page looks like with the triangle flaps folded in. Notice the overall shape of the model now.

12. This is the top front view of the model.

13. Compare this picture to the one above. See how I have folded in the triangles that stuck out above?

14. Here is what the back side of the model looks like. I kind of like this look too. You could tuck item in here if they were flat enough. In the final book this side will get hidden, though.

15. This is the completed model from the side. The triangular pieces in between each accordion fold give this book its expandability. You can put bulky objects in each section. 

16. To finish the book simply attach a cover with narrow spine and you are ready to go. The cover for this size book measures 4 x 5.5 inches.  I attached it with glue and double sided tape, but you can use whatever you like.

Circle Segment Sculpture

I have been working for a few weeks on a project and taking pictures of the art in progress. I thought you might like to see how a piece of art goes from concept to completion. I took a series of pictures throughout the process and they appear below with descriptions. You will see that I changed directions along the way. I often begin a piece of art with one idea in mind and as I work other ideas surface and demand to be given a chance. I like the end result of this project and hope you do too. I still need to come up with a name so if you have any suggestions please leave them in the comments section. Thanks for stopping by.

~Gina

 The idea for this piece came from a segment I saw on Antiques Roadshow some time ago. This guy brought a round table in that was made of six curved parts. It turned out that each part had its own set of legs and could, therefore be deconstructed and rearranged into different configurations. I loved it instantly and drew a sketch to save for later. I made my circle and segments from foam core using a circle cutter to make the cuts.

 At first I planned to make this with a top and bottom piece suspended with wooden dowels. I made a couple of segments to try out the concept and played with different origami objects to place inside.

Here are some of the parts and tools I used at this stage to create the interior space. After I lined up the two segments I didn't like the open feeling of the piece, but wanted it to have thickness. I decided to undo this work but save the cut pieces. I ended up cutting out 3 circles and segmenting them to make the final circle form.

 This is a picture of the open space design with an origami butterfly suspended in the middle on a pin. I ended up changing the concept entirely.

Here is one segment wrapped in Japanese paper the meld the three pieces of foam core together. I ended up painting the sides the match the colors of the top. See the next few pictures.

 This painting for the top of the circle started out as just a sample. I ended up liking it so much that I used it on the final work. I love the way the gold and blue work together. I used the circle stencil to mask the center, which was originally black, so that I could paint it gold to match the gold stencil work.

 My favorite configuration for these segments is the one shown above. before I glued the cut paper wedges to the foam core I played around with their arrangement once the circle design was broken up. I was surprised that the design worked so well after being broken apart and reformed.

When I was satisfied with the look of the design, I glued the watercolor paper design onto the six segments being careful to align each piece with the edges of the foam core base.

Then I rearranged the segments into my favorite shape and turned the pieces over. 

I decided to use a piece of Japanese paper (the same kind I used for the sides of each segment) with writing on it for the back. I laid a sheet of paper beneath this shape and traced each segment in pencil. Then I used a divider with pencil lead to trace a 1/8th inch indent. I cut out the paper and glued it down.

This is how the back looks when the piece is returned to its circle form. I still prefer the shape above, but this looks good too. What do you think?

Woven Paper Structures

I have created a video to show you how to make beautiful woven paper creations. I am also sharing photographs of several projects I have made using this versatile technique. I hope you give it a try too.

Thanks for stopping by.

~Gina

 These first two images are woven paper that I then joined at the end to form a circular form. 

This is a recent project that uses Graphic 45 papers and vintage gloves to make a book.

Watch the video below to learn how to make woven paper.

You Tube video, Flexigon

Today I have a tutorial that you can watch on You Tube. Learn how to make a dynamic card called a flexigon and use Graphic 45 to decorate it. You can use any paper designs for this project or draw your own images and text. Once you learn this fun technique the sky's the limit.

The materials and sizes you will need are listed below along with some step by step pictures, but following along with the video is the easiest way to learn how to make this flexigon.

Materials:

Paper measurements:

4 pieces of

cardstock

cut to 3" x 6"

4 images (ie. faces, animals, flowers, etc.) that measure 2 7/8" x 2 7/8" square. Cut each of these into

1 7/16" (just shy of 1.5 inches) square quarters.

Hardware:

Glue stick or your favorite white glue

Bone Folder

Cutting mat

Cutting knife (ex-acto blade)

Ruler

Paper trimmer (optional)

http://youtu.be/vZEoayzQKck

3" x 6" black cardstock with Tim Holtz embossed gears

 Graphic 45 Steampunk Spells Stamp Images cut to almost 1.5" squares.

Partly glued image on center part of Flexigon. Glue images after flexigon is put together.

Finished side of the Flexigon with central image and embellishments in corners.

Thanks for stopping by. I hope you will try this interactive card and enjoy the creative process.